City Guide: Paris
There's no place quite like the French capital, a mesmerizing sea of intricate gardens, Haussmann architecture, and world-renowned gastronomy. Envision your days people-watching in quaint cafes and strolling along the Seine, exploring the culturally rich arrondissements that spiral out from its banks. Paris will always have that certain je ne sais quoi, but that doesn't mean we can’t spend our days trying to capture it. Not intended to be all-encompassing, this is a design-focused selection of experiences in the iconic city of lights.
Where to stay:
Hôtel Caron de Beaumarchais
Nestled among the buzzy boutiques, galleries, and restaurants of the historical Marais quarter and just blocks from the Seine, this boutique hotel housed in an 18th-century townhome transports you back to the theatrical elegance of Paris in the time of Beaumarchais. The interior is inspired by the works of the 18th-century eponymous playwright and his most famous piece, "The Marriage of Figaro". The entry parlor sets the scene, with a piano-forte from 1792 and a harp- referencing that Beaumarchais was the harp teacher of Louis XV’s daughters- that appear as if the musicians have just stepped out to take a break from the soirée. The floral-covered walls are accented with an antique marble fireplace topped with candelabras and a vintage chandelier, making for a quintessentially French experience.
The 19 rooms all feel as if you've entered a private boudoir, adorned with antique wooden beams and cheeky art. Be sure to book a front-side room as they are larger and look out onto the charming streets of the Marais, and if you don't mind a smaller space, the front-facing rooms on the 6th floor have balconies with the best view. Have your breakfast spread of flakey croissants, coffee, and fresh fruit brought up to your room, and enjoy a morning sitting on the balcony overlooking the historical heart of Paris.
Hôtel National Des Arts et Métiers: Located between the Marais and Montorgueil, the new Hôtel National Des Arts et Métiers designed by Raphael Navot is a blend of timeless French design and modern innovation, a palette of sophisticated raw materials awaiting behind a classic Haussmann facade. The 65-room hotel has an Italian restaurant and two bars onsite: the moody Herbarium cocktail lounge on the first floor, and the Hotel National Rooftop. If you’re not staying at the hotel, be sure to come for cocktails on the roof, as they welcome non-hotel guests with no prior booking to lounge on the daybeds with an exceptional view of the city.
Les Bains: Once a 19th-century public bathhouse turned era-defining nightclub where the likes of Mick Jagger, Bowie, and Yves Saint Laurent would be spotted, Les Bains had already lived many lives before being re-envisioned as a boutique hotel. Deep jewel-toned velvets and Carrera marble set a luxurious tone throughout both the rooms and public spaces of this five star hotel, an elegant take on this cultural phenomenon.
At Les Bains you will find innovative global cuisine, a bar, salon, and a spa are all at your fingertips, steps from the Haute Marais district. The hotel’s restaurant Roxo is a destination in its own right, where dining below an undulating reflective red ceiling that forms into shapes of giant water drops reminds you of the hotel’s beginnings. Tables are set over the legendary black-and-white-checkered dance floor, and if one meanders downstairs, they will find a neon-lit, mosaic-tiled pool for a fitting late night soak.
Where to explore:
Start your morning at a boulangerie for the most important meal of the day: pastries.
In Paris, you’ll never have to go far to find a croissant as there is practically a boulangerie on every corner. If your home base is in the Marais, stop at Au Petit Versailles du Marais and get the almond croissant or the pain au chocolat. If you don’t mind waiting in line, head to Boulangerie Utopie and get the sesame roule, brioche, or practically anything on the menu as many believe this spot has the best pastries in all of France.
For those in search of specialty coffee to start the day, look no further than Café Loustic, a chic espresso bar serving coffee from the Belgian roaster Caffènation within a vintage Hermès wallpaper-clad space.
For a relaxing day in the gardens:
Take a leisurely walk over the Seine to the Left Bank. You can see Notre Dame as you walk by, however, it is currently closed due to the damages from the devastating fire in 2019. You can still marvel at the beauty of the Gothic architecture from a distance and avoid stopping in the dense tourist area on Rue de la Cite. In the Latin quarter, take a moment to see the original location of Odette, on rue Galande. It is next to the square Rene Viviani-Montebello, home to the oldest tree in Paris. The patisserie, famous for its cream puffs, is housed in a 17th-century building with flowers draping over the window boxes. Its unique corner position and beautiful facade make this a great spot to stop at even if you’re not getting deserts, as you can get a view of Notre Dame without the crowds.
Admire the famous Universite Paris-Sorbonne (established in the 13th century) before entering the Jardin du Luxembourg by the Medici Fountain. You can spend an entire afternoon exploring these beautiful gardens and completely forget that you are in one of the most major, metropolitan cities in the world. See Luxembourg palace and wander through the rose gardens, watch or play a game of boules, have a picnic between the manicured trees of Esplanade Gaston-Monnerville, and most importantly- grab a few of the iconic green Senat chairs and bask in the sun.
The Senat chairs have a long history in the gardens of Paris dating back to the 1800s. What started as a complaint about the discomfort of park benches turned into companies renting out chairs for a steep price. In 1923, the current chairs we recognize as Senat chairs started showing up in Jardin du Luxembourg, with a complete mystery (to this day!) as to where they came from, or who designed them. The French senate eventually requested submissions for a new design and production of the chairs, and they are now manufactured in an ironworks factory in Thoissey by Fermob. (The chairs are available to order online if you want to take a piece of Paris home with you and are available in all different colors, except, of course, the signature Paris green: RAL 6013).
After an afternoon in the gardens head to Saint-Germain-des-Prés for a drink or meal at Cafe de Flore. Sit out on the sidewalk and enjoy the city’s iconic cafe culture and the energy of Boulevard Saint-Germain. The adjacent Beau Regard on rue Guillaume is also a great less touristy alternative. Its unique concept as a cinema-plus-brasserie provides an exciting atmosphere to taste the European small plates and extensive wine list. After dinner stroll over to Rue de Buci for a nightcap at Maison Sauvage or L’Atlas.
Other notable gardens:
Jardin des Tuileries: Located next to the Louvre in the 1st, Tuileries represents the pinnacle of French landscape design with its formal, manicured garden.
Place des Vosges: The oldest planned square in Paris boasts a beautiful park with a central fountain surrounded by red-brick mansions.
Jardin du Palais Royal: The landscaped grounds surrounding this 17th-century palace feature tree-lined paths perfect for a calm and contemplative walk. Hard to miss is the Colonnes, a once controversial art installation by the conceptual artist Daniel Buren. The black and white striped stumps in the courtyard stand in stark juxtaposition to the elegant Palais Royal, a symbol of the contrast between classes and the critical hierarchies of power. Stop by and decide for yourself how you feel about the installation, or at least to capture an interesting photo before lounging in the garden.
For a day exploring the 18th (Montmarte and Pigalle):
If you’re not staying near the 18th, you can take the metro. The Paris metro is incredibly easy to navigate, and there are three main stops to get to Montemarte depending on where you are coming from: Abbesses Station (line 12), Blanche Station (line 2), or Anvers Station (line 2). Each features the signature art nouveau metro entrance signs designed by French architect Hector Guimard.
For sightseeing, start your day with a little climb to Sacré-Cœur. The Romanesque-Byzantine style basilica is located at the highest point of Montmarte and is well worth the trek up for the unmatched panoramic views of Paris. Soak in the scenery and then make your way through the narrow, cobblestone streets of one of Paris’s oldest neighborhoods. Once home to both Dali and Picasso, it’s easy to see why the artists chose this charming neighborhood as their residence and a source of inspiration. Stop at Musée de Montmartre - Jardins Renoir and walk through the museum of artist studios in the oldest building of Montmarte. These studios were the homes and meeting places of many artists, most notably Pierre-August Renoir, and are meant to be experienced as they were then, with art displayed on easels and antique furniture scattered about. Out back, the cafe and gardens overlook the local vineyards, Vigne Montmartre, and the plains to the North of Paris.
No trip to Montmarte would be complete without seeing what is widely regarded as the “prettiest street in all of Paris”. Rue de l'Abreuvoir begins at La Maison Rose, the historic restaurant standing at the corner in a charming pink house with green shutters. Continue down the winding cobblestone street to the bottom where you’ll have the best view, looking back at the dome of Sacré-Cœur peeking out over the beautiful houses covered in ivy.
Spend the rest of your afternoon and evening exploring Pigalle, known for its lively nightlife and up-and-coming foodie scene. Have lunch or dinner at Boullion Pigalle. Lines can stretch around the corner, but if you come at an off-time (try a later lunch or early dinner) you’ll be glad you didn’t miss this truly authentic French experience (and the three-course meal with wine for under €25 doesn’t hurt, either.)
The original bouillons of Paris date back to 1860, when a Parisian butcher opened the casual eateries to make traditional dishes like hochepot de boeuf, or bouillon broth with the unsold cuts of meat. The large dining rooms accommodated seating for many hungry patrons at an affordable price. Over the years they closed down in favor of more expensive bistros and brasseries, however, they have recently made a resurgence. Boullion Pigalle is a fresh take on the traditional Boullion, with the interior of a modern diner, (think white subway tile and red vinyl booths), plants hanging above the seating, and punchy graphics. The prices are unheard of, with most starters under €5 and both mains and carafes of red wine under €10. Order the escargot, the veal or the beef bourguignon (or both, why not), and don’t forget the pomme frites. If you’re looking for a more sophisticated dinner, make a reservation at the Michelin-starred Frenchie Pigalle and dine in the sleek, ceramic-tiled space.
For an art-filled day at museums and galleries:
If you’ve already been to the Louvre or just want to stay away from the larger crowds, visit L’Orangerie and see Monet’s water lilies in the panoramic oval rooms on the upper floors. The museum also contains works by Cezanne, Matisse, Picasso, and Renoir, among others.
Stroll along the right bank of the Seine to the Pont Alexandre III, the most grandiose of all the bridges along the river. Stop to admire the sweeping views and the gold statues standing centennial on either side. You can either continue along and head to Invalides, or cross and hug the left bank down to Pont des Invalides and stop at Fluctuart. So many of Paris's most visited museums are located along the Seine, so a great place for a break in between is at one of the boat bars.
Fluctuart is the world's first floating urban art center, a sleek multi-level gallery and bar that explores various movements in urban and street art. The architecture itself references the Seine, with floor-to-ceiling glass windows on either side representing the banks of the river and creating a vibrant scene lit from within at night. (Open until 1am on the lively rooftop bar). The visibility also plays into Fluctuart’s mission of making art accessible to everyone and challenges the notions of traditional museums. Admission to the gallery is free to all, making this a great alternative to the typical boat tour. Enter the space from the deck, where your feet are just above the water below you, and make your way up to the roof for a spritz and the charcuterie + fromage board. Enjoy this vantage of Paris from the boat deck over the waters of the Seine. After a cocktail or two, browse both their temporary and current collections downstairs and pick up a coffee table book to bring home from the bookstore.
Stay on the left bank and make your way to Musee Rodin to see the largest collection of the master bronze sculptor’s work in the world. The museum contains most of Auguste Rodin's significant creations, including The Thinker, The Kiss and The Gates of Hell. It features 6,600 sculptures and 7,000 objets d’art, inside and outside of the mansion. You can spend the afternoon making your way through the beautiful gardens admiring the extensive collection of prolific sculptures.
End your afternoon with a picnic under the Eiffel Tower and then head back to your hotel before dinner in the 11th.
Other notable museums:
Musée Picasso: Located at the Hotel Salé in the Marais, a rich heritage mansion from the 17th century where the largest public collection of Picasso’s work is on display. Alongside the many paintings are also his letters, sketches, and poetry, a close look into the life of the famous painter in the city where he spent most of his artistic life.
Les Invalides Musée de l’Armée: For history buffs, the national military museum of France is located within the grand Hôtel des Invalides and tells the history of both French and worldwide conflicts with collections spanning from antiquity to the 20th century. Don’t miss the Dôme des Invalides, a magnificent monument by Mansart constructed in the 1600’s, the glittering gold dome of the Paris skyline. This was where royal mass was held during the reign of Louis XIV and is now home to the tomb of Napoleon Bonaparte.
Galleries and shops:
When booking your museum tickets, be sure to leave some space in your itinerary to visit some of Paris’s incomparable galleries and shops.
Mercie: This beloved Paris shop is much more than it appears from its discreet courtyard exterior, with ivy-covered walls and a vintage fiat reading merci on the streets of the Marais. Inside is a 16,000-square-foot concept store sprawling over three stories filled with furniture, homewares, a bookshop, and a cafe. From the fashion aficionado to the interior design-minded, there is no shortage of inspiration or gifts to be found. The shop regularly holds gallery exhibitions, one of their latest coinciding with Maison & Object: “Upcycling: A New Lease on Life." The concept of the exhibition is renewal, a mission in sustainable practice that has been important to the owners from the beginning. Each object has a story behind it, crafted from natural materials and given a new life.
Galerie Patrick Seguin: A haven for midcentury design enthusiasts, Galerie Patrick Seguin is a furniture gallery and exhibition space in the 11th arrondissement featuring the best of twentieth-century french modernism. Patrick Seguin has devoted his career to ensuring the works of Jean Prouvé, Charlotte Perriand, Pierre Jeanneret, Le Corbusier, and Jean Royère are internationally recognized for their importance in art history. The former warehouse interior was reimagined by Ateliers Jean Nouvel in a clean, stark white paint from floor to ceiling, leaving space for collectors to imagine the timeless pieces in their own homes.
India Mahdavi showroom: Pay a visit to the famed international designer’s showroom in the city where she runs her architecture and interior design studio. Located in the 7th arrondissement, the eclectic furnishings on display are fitting of the Iranian-born interior designer’s well-traveled life, with lush velvet fabrics in bright deco patterns juxtaposing natural, caned back chairs.
Yvon Lambert bookshop: This renowned modernist bookshop and gallery in the Marais founded in the 80’s helped shape the neighborhood into what it is today, a hub for the worldy art crowd and creatives. This was one of the first locations that American artists were ever showcased in Paris. Browse the extensive collection of art and photography books, and pick up a limited edition exhibition print.
Le Bon Marche: Visit Paris’s oldest and most iconic department store for all your luxe needs, or for excellent window shopping if you’re on a budget. The interiors are just as beautiful as the merchandise, with the bright sky-lit atrium and iconic tiled escalators.
Where (else) to eat & drink:
Le Servan: This sister-run neo-bistro in the 11th arrondissement features a seasonal menu where chef Tatiana’s French training is infused with flavors from Southeast Asia. Her cooking is deeply rooted in her Philippino family history, one that she is proud to share as she cooks on display from the open kitchen in this Michelin-starred restaurant.
The cozy interior features a gleaming brass bar with intricate crown moldings and a fresco ceiling left perfectly untouched. The glass storefront and mirrored walls keep the space feeling light above the original tiled flooring.
What to order: Start with the blood sausage wontons and sweet chili sauce or the oysters in a lime, chili dill dressing. For mains, opt for the crispy skin-on chicken in a truffle sauce or the merlu fish with curry butter. You also can’t go wrong with the milk-fed veal sweetbread, a French classic. Top off your meal with the Paris-Brest – a choux pastry ring filled with praline cream, or go for something seasonal such as the rhubarb tart with sorbet à la framboise.
Pair your meal with a natural french wine recommended by Katia, the sommelier (+ restaurant manager and sister to chef Tatiana).
If you’re in search of a meal leaning more towards East Asia, head to the newest creation by the sister duo, Double Dragon. Order the deep-fried Comté bao buns in XO sauce and the sweet and spicy Korean fried chicken.
Derrière: This “cheeky” restaurant welcomes you into what feels like a quirky Parisian apartment, with the option to dine in the kitchen, boudoir, living room, or (as we would recommend) the outdoor terrace for what feels to be an intimate, invite-only dinner party beneath the glow of string lights. Classic comfort dishes like Duck Confit and Sweetbread are the stars here, with the deserts changing seasonally. If they have the chocolate and pistachio “petit pot”, don’t think twice about indulging yourself. And if you happen to hear music coming from the antique armour near the toilettes, best to ignore it. Or take your chances and peek inside the cabinet alla chronicles-of-Narnia for a speakeasy delight.
Parcelles: Nestled into a quiet block of the Marais, this small restaurant packs tremendous flavor into a short, seasonal menu complemented by wines from the South of France, Italy, and Spain. Fresh dishes of zucchini fritters and a cherry tomato & stracciatella salad are alongside staples (hint: the unmissable hazelnut tiramisu).
Robert et Louise: Aside from the coat of deep red paint slacked on the exterior, you may walk right past the entrance of this classic bistro on Rue Vieille du Temple, but you’d surely be sorry you did. Founded by the eponymous Robert and Louise over 60 years ago, their daughter and her husband now run the restaurant and have ensured its relevance today. Wood-fired meat from the open hearth of a massive stone fireplace takes center stage- think smoldering ribeye, t-bone steak, and leg of lamb (don’t forget the garlic butter snails). Rustic French cooking doesn’t get better than this. (Tip: Sit downstairs in the cozy wine-cave-like basement clad in stone where the second bar is located.)
Le Mary Celeste: A neighborhood cocktail bar for both locals and visitors alike, this oyster bar in the Marais was named after a 19th-century ship that sailed from New York and was later found adrift and abandoned with only one thing left on board: alcohol. In a nod to the namesake, the interior leans tropical with bright pops of color among the wood and a patch of bright green paint streaked across the brick walls. The central bar spins out creative cocktails with literary quotes for descriptions and the kitchen serves light, seafood-focused fare. Alongside your orders of raw tuna and shellfish, be sure to try their signature deviled egg topped with deep-fried rice.
Le Perchoir: When in the 11th arrondissement for dinner, stop at Le Perchoir for a drink at sunset. Depending on the time of year you are in Paris, this could very well be after dinner as the sun doesn’t set until 10:00pm in the summer months. In any case, you may end up staying until close at this swanky rooftop bar with music, cocktails, and 360-degree city views of the city- a local favorite.
Brasserie Rosie: Also located in the foodie haven of the 11th arrondissement is Brasserie Rosie, a restaurant paying tribute to the 19th-century lighting shops that used to line the streets of the Bastille area. Diners sit on plush velvet banquettes and classic Thonet cafe chairs with dozens of vintage chandeliers hanging overhead. Come for homey dishes and stay for a glass of bubbly.
Marché des Enfants Rouges: One of the best-kept foodie secrets of all may be the Marché des Enfants Rouges, the oldest covered market in Paris. It was established in 1615 in the Marais and has been recognized as a historic monument since 1982. Make your way through the dense aisles between the independently run stalls, a vibrant melting pot of international food from Moroccan cous cous at Le Traiteur Marocain to a Japanese bento box from Chez Taeko. Pay a visit to the famed Chez Alain Miam Miam and watch Alain himself grilling hearty sandwiches topped with fromage comté melting on the crêpe pan.
Et voilà! Bon voyage!